In the 1970s and 1980s, Zambians living abroad often sent clothes back home to relatives as gifts.
A parcel from a brother, sister, uncle or aunt living in Britain, the United States or another foreign country was something many families looked forward to.
The clothes were not necessarily new, but they were valued because they were useful, durable and sometimes different from what was readily available in local shops.
Decades later, that tradition of receiving second-hand clothes has evolved into a thriving commercial trade known as salaula.
What was once largely an expression of family generosity has become an important source of affordable clothing for millions of Zambians, while providing livelihoods for traders, transporters and tailors.
Today, salaula is a familiar feature of Zambia’s urban and rural markets. From Lusaka’s Kamwala Market to Kitwe’s Chisokone Market, people of different ages and economic backgrounds search through piles of clothes for dresses, shirts, trousers, jackets, shoes and other garments at prices they can afford.
The growth of this trade has changed how many Zambians dress. For people who cannot afford expensive garments from conventional clothing shops, salaula offers an opportunity to look presentable without spending a large portion of their income on clothes.
Salaula is a Bemba word meaning to select or rummage through a pile of items. The name aptly describes the shopping experience, in which customers search through heaps of garments to find something that suits their taste, size and budget.
Unlike the earlier practice of receiving clothes directly from relatives abroad, the modern salaula market is part of an international second-hand clothing industry.
Used garments collected in countries such as Britain, the United States and elsewhere are sorted, packaged into bales and shipped to markets around the world, including Zambia.
When the bales arrive, traders open them and sort the contents for sale. The process can be unpredictable because traders do not always know the exact quality or type of garments inside.
Some bales contain fashionable clothes in excellent condition, while others may include damaged, stained or less desirable items.
For traders, buying a bale involves an element of risk. Their profits depend on the quality of the clothes, their ability to attract customers and how quickly they can sell their stock.
Nevertheless, the trade continues to attract participants because of the demand for inexpensive clothing.
One of salaula’s greatest attractions is its affordability. A customer who might struggle to buy several new outfits from a conventional shop can often assemble a wardrobe by purchasing individual second-hand garments.
The variety is another advantage, as the markets offer different colours, designs and styles, including clothing that may be difficult to find in ordinary retail outlets.
This affordability has made salaula particularly important at a time when households must balance clothing expenses against food, transport, school requirements and other essential needs.
For many families, the ability to buy decent clothing at a lower price is not merely a matter of fashion; it is a practical way of managing limited resources.
The trade has also created opportunities for people who provide services around the sale of second-hand garments.
Transporters move bales from one location to another, marketeers sell the clothes, and tailors modify garments to suit individual customers.
It is not unusual for a customer to find a dress that is attractive but too long, a shirt that is too loose or a pair of trousers that requires adjustment.
Tailors help solve these problems by shortening, reshaping or redesigning garments. In this way, clothes that might otherwise remain unsold can be made suitable for another customer.
The expansion of salaula has also transformed the relationship between clothing and migration. In earlier decades, a family member living abroad might send a parcel of clothes directly to relatives in Zambia.
Today, similar garments can pass through collection centres, sorting facilities, shipping companies, wholesalers and local traders before reaching consumers.
The personal gift has, in many cases, become part of a wider commercial chain.
However, the popularity of second-hand clothing also raises concerns. Garments need to be cleaned properly before they are worn, while clothes that are torn, stained or unsuitable for use can contribute to textile waste.
There are also continuing questions about the impact of imported second-hand clothing on Zambia’s local textile and garment industries.
Supporters of the trade point to its affordability and the employment it creates. Those concerned about the local textile sector argue that the availability of cheap imported clothing can make it harder for locally manufactured garments to compete on price.
Finding a balance between consumers’ need for affordable clothes and the development of domestic textile production remains an important consideration.
Nevertheless, salaula has become deeply embedded in Zambia’s everyday economic and social life. It serves students, workers, farmers, businesspeople and families who want to dress well without paying the prices associated with brand-new clothing.
The journey from relatives sending hand-me-downs in the 1970s and 1980s to the modern salaula trade reflects broader changes in migration, commerce and household spending.
What began for many families as a welcome gift from a loved one abroad has developed into a market that connects Zambia to the global second-hand clothing industry.
For countless Zambians, the result is simple: dressing well has become more accessible and affordable. Salaula may have its challenges, but its enduring popularity demonstrates how an old culture of sharing clothes has evolved into a modern trade that helps people meet an everyday need while supporting thousands of livelihoods.
By Nathan Meleki